Thursday, 14 October 2010

Moments, magic and tragic

Today was a day that filled my senses. It was full of brief moments, experiences and emotions that were all the more striking for their juxtaposition.


My walk to work overloads my senses in many ways, some good, some predictably bad. Today’s walk reached a joyous crescendo as I turned a corner to see a gaggle of uniformed primary school kids coming towards me, who then proceeded to mob me with cries of “abruni!” and leg-hugs aplenty. Just delightful! 2 minutes walk on though, I saw a destitute-looking blind man stood against a wall at the side of the walkway with his hand, quietly outstretched on top of his walking stick. The contrast of my preceding sensory overload with his relative sensory starvation was stark. I walked on, despite feeling a tug not to, a feeling I would again today….. If I see the man there another day I will stop.

Outside the Accra Rehabilitation Centre where I work, I stopped to buy my bottle of water and bananas from the deaf lady who is one of several stallholders there. Signing “Good morning, how are you? I’m fine. A large bottle of water, thank you. What is your name? I’m Kathryn” to her sent my spirits soaring once more. Greeting my colleagues in Twi sustained the high a little longer.

For lunch I strolled out to the local “chop bar” for some street food. On my way I saw, across the road, what looked like a disabled person who had fallen from their wheelchair, lying motionless on the ground. I walked on, again feeling the tug not to, but as others were simply walking by I thought I would give the situation (and my brain) some time, and reevaluate the situation on my imminent return. I did just that and the situation was exactly the same. The person was still on the floor and all those around were still completely ignoring their presence. I went back to my office and enlisted a colleague to accompany me back and potentially aid me in whatever situation we might be approaching. I was grateful (if a little embarrassed) to find that the lady had in fact chosen to climb down from her wheelchair and sleep in front of it, in the middle of a busy pavement. I was relieved the lady was fine, and glad I chose not to ignore the situation. But thinking that lying on the pavement was that lady’s best option for rest, thinking how exhausted she must have been to need to take that option, and starting to think through the myriad of factors that could have contributed to her extreme exhaustion gave me my second moment of humble reflection of the day.

My walk home brought me more of the happy moments. I stopped to say thank you in Twi to the stallholder whose daughter had directed me to a local hotel (so that I could check out the swimming pool!) the evening before. I wished all the way home that someone would ask me “Abruni, where are you going?” so that I could answer “meeko fie” (I’m going home) - words that had eluded me when the question was called out to me the evening before. Happily I was asked and this time I was ready, and even better the chap who asked me clearly wasn’t expecting me to respond in Twi! I decided to buy a whole pineapple freshly chopped for my desert / breakfast on the way home just because I could. And I loved the energy of the school football match I passed on the dusty terracotta-coloured pitch down the road from my current abode.

All these moments in just one day, there really are new experiences everywhere. My housemate is working for the domestic violence unit of the police service is being picked up and dropped home every day in an air conditioned jeep. Yep, sounds nice, but I am sure I am the one who feels richer for my journey.

Saturday, 2 October 2010

Something for everybody

After just 4 full days of work with Ghana Federation of the Disabled (GFD), I was out of the office last week attending VSO’s Inclusion Workshop in Kumasi, approximately 4 hours by coach from Accra. The timing was perhaps a little premature to be ideal, but the week was an incredibly useful professional experience, and a great personal one too.


I went to the VIP bus station first thing on Monday morning where I was meeting Emily, a fellow volunteer in VSO’s Inclusion programme. Emily has been based in Accra fundraising for the Ghana National Association of the Deaf for the last year and is also the VSO Volunteer Representative for the Greater Accra region. As such (and as a generally super lovely and extremely helpful person) she has been a fantastic help in getting to know Accra and how to short-cut what would otherwise be a long and more expensive process! Monday morning was however my first time of doing something for Emily in return. I got to the bus station first and so I got the tickets and located the next bus for both of us. This was a pretty straightforward process I admit, but I did it, for Emily! It felt good, I was marginally self-reliant again, I’ve been missing it!

The VIP buses make you feel like just that. There are only 3 seats across meaning they are brilliantly big, business class big. When they recline, which they do very well, the footrest helpfully moves into position. There is air con. You are reminded that you are in Africa by the long sections of bumpy roads under construction that you follow, by the blaring presence of the Nigerian film that is played throughout the journey, and the far more interesting (and less farcical) real life scenes that I preferred to watch out of the window.

Arriving in Kumasi we were greeted by an incredibly bustling city, one that I hoped I would have a little time to explore. Arriving at lunchtime on Monday, and with the workshop not starting until Tuesday morning, we were gifted a little time that afternoon which Emily, another volunteer Aidan and myself used to visit the Ghana National Cultural Centre. The small museum here provided an insight into the history of Kumasi as the royal capital of the Ashanti State and some interesting insights into the tribal history. Well worth a visit.

On Tuesday morning the attendees assembled in the conference room of the Miklin Hotel for the workshop and we were a mix of VSO volunteers and representatives from the partner organisations we are working for. A little context…. Until earlier this year VSO Ghana was running a Disability Programme. This involved placing volunteers with local partner organisations who were working with or for people with disabilities in Ghana, strengthening their ability to achieve their organisation’s visions and goals. This clearly is immensely valuable work, but VSO Ghana recognised that those with disabilities are just one of the underrepresented groups in Ghana’s communities. To tackle exclusion more holistically, they are moving to a new programme that encourages all of their local partner organisations (in Education, Secure Livelihoods and those from the previous Disability programme) to ensure they are considering the needs of EVERYONE in their communities in the work they do.

Inclusion key word brainstorm

The very first exercise we undertook as a group was to reflect on what Inclusion meant to us. The picture shows the words that came out of this brainstorm and their variety indicates the scope of the topic, and the breadth of perspectives from which it can be viewed. Moving on from defining Inclusion the group went on to attempt to define “development”, a challenge that generated an even greater range of responses. What became clear from the two exercises was that for development to be “good” it needs to involve all members of society and enable their views to be heard. It needs to be inclusive. One of the quotes that has stuck with me is: “Poverty is a form of exclusion, and exclusions can lead to poverty. By increasing inclusion you will reduce poverty.” Discuss…. We did!



Dominica explaining our group's visual representation of development

We worked in groups to consider the dimensions of exclusion (political, economic, social, cultural and environmental), how you can identify the excluded, how you can start to address some of the barriers, and who the excluded groups are in Ghana. This discussion was particularly interesting as it revealed that even amongst this relatively enlightened group of professionals there are some deep rooted (often cultural) prejudices, that despite all the inclusive theorising, will ultimately determine the extent to which an inclusive approach will be applied. I admit that there are undoubtedly some prejudices held by the volunteers in the group, but in this discussion it was those of the Ghanaian partner representatives that were most clearly evident, the strongest being against homosexuals and prostitutes. Another quote resonated with me here “Before we can work inclusively we need to live inclusively”.

The second day of the workshop brought a fascinating first session where individuals shared their personal experiences of inclusion and exclusion. A lady spoke of how she was personally supporting a young girl through school after she witnessed the girl’s parents denying her food so that her brother could go to school on a full stomach. The girl is now preparing herself to start a master’s degree. The boy is trading in the local market. Another lady, who has a physical disability, explained how she travelled with a group of her organisation’s donors to Kumasi last year to visit the Ashanti King. She was approached in the queue and asked to leave as the King would not see anyone with a disability for fear that he may develop a disability as a result. Shocking. Even worse, the donors were apparently upset with the lady for having brought them all that way for them not to be seen. I can’t imagine just how horribly excluded she must have felt.

On a more positive note the group then worked through the steps an organisation can take towards becoming more inclusive in their work. From an Inclusion Audit, to developing and Inclusion Strategy, performing sensitisation activities where they raise awareness within the organisation on the reasons for, and benefits of, being inclusive in their approach, to how to review policies, workplace systems and programmes accordingly, and how to influence others to do the same.

Picking up on the importance of influencing others we moved on to look at the Rights Based Approach, ie the fact that development is all about the greater fulfilment of everyone’s rights. Power dynamics have a huge role in different people’s abilities to access their rights and so we then considered these, thought through times when we have felt more and less powerful and what lay at the heart of these feelings. Ultimately they seemed to be determined by our abilities to access our rights, or our ownership of knowledge, both of which are affected by how involved individuals are in a situation. Linking it back to inclusion we discussed how you can help to increase the power of previously excluded groups, enabling them to become champions for change themselves.

Despite this being an exceedingly long blog entry (I hope some of you are still reading!) this merely touches on the range of issues we spent 3 whole days (and chunks of the evenings) discussing. Being part of the workshop was a fantastic learning experience for me. I had the chance to get to know some people working at VSO’s partner organisations and hear from their personal experience. I met a number of other serving volunteers who will no doubt be a useful professional (as well as social!) network for me. And I got to see how VSO works so well in bringing these groups together, expertly facilitating the open exchange of knowledge, experience and understanding to enable all involved to leave with a more informed perspective on the issues at hand, and armed with the shared experience the representative and volunteer as a strong combination through which to ensure the follow up.


Group photo of the workshop participants

I was at the workshop with my colleague Doris from GFD. Doris is in charge of GFD’s gender programme ensuring that the rights of women are fully represented in the work of GFD and its member organisations. For our follow up we discussed and agreed that we would provide an overview of the workshop at GFD’s staff meeting on Tuesday next week, asking all staff to consider how their programmes might be exclusive and ways in which they could be made more inclusive. We said we would work with Fred (the acting Director) to identify who should lead on the undertaking of an Inlusion Audit at GFD, and Doris will be presenting the key themes of the workshop to GFD’s Gender Committee. Together those activities will certainly “sensitise” the organisation to the issues we discussed at the workshop, and will open eyes to the ways in which even GFD can be more inclusive in it’s working. Doris informed me that GFD does not currently support the needs of children with disabilities, so that will be a good place to start!

After the close of the workshop late on Thursday I took my chance on Friday morning to explore Kumasi’s Kejetia Market, apparently the largest open air market in West Africa. It was fantastic! A feast for the senses. The sounds, sights and smells varied as I passed through the different trading “zones”, meat and fish, vegetables, fabric, machetes (I didn’t hang around in that one!), household goods, baby wear…. The market is like a labyrinth, but everywhere you pause for a moment and interact with a stall holder you instantly see that the same friendliness and warmth radiates throughout. My brain was buzzing, watching my feet (you don’t want to twist an ankle on the uneven floor or step in a muddy puddle), watching my bag (with one wrong turn I could wipeout an expertly stacked pile of chillies affecting the trader’s takings for the day…week…) watching my head (obstacles are often at head height as traders hawk their wares around the market, or simply move their stock, on top of their heads), and be prepared to respond (if I felt like it) to the countless calls of “abruni” (foreigner). Wonderfully, I was the only westerner I saw in the market. It was an invigorating experience in so many ways and the perfect taste of Kumasi which I hope to see more of on another trip.

Sunday, 26 September 2010

Getting to know GFD

It was surprisingly reassuring to find that a first week volunteering in Ghana feels just like the first week in a job back home. The same “getting to know the place” issues of where is the loo (Ah, there’s a much nicer locked one for our office is there? Very good to know!!), where is the water cooler? (help yourself to plastic pouches of “pure water” from the fridge), learning everyone’s names (Fred, Greg, Sackey, Vida, Harrison, Faustie, Ike, Doris, Peter, Cynde, Dede, all considerably cheerier than their photos might suggest :) http://www.gfdgh.org/staff.html) and making friends with them through the medium of biscuits (yes, baked by the Queen! ).

It wouldn’t be as exciting if some things weren’t different, like the language (missing out on banter as half of the office chat is in Twi, but learning to sign a new phrase from Dede everyday) the lunch places (feeling ever so conspicuous as the only white face, sat on my own, being the only one using cutlery to tackle my bowlful of half a fish in groundnut soup with rice balls), and being very conscious of how I sit (crossing your legs is disrespectful until you get to know people, but no one seems to do it anyway).

I’m working as a Resource Mobilization Advisor for the Ghana Federation of the Disabled (GFD), which is located, along with some of its member organisations (Ghana National Association of the Deaf, Ghana Association of the Blind and Ghana Society of the Physically Disabled) at the Accra Rehabilitation Centre. There are 38 National Vocational (Rehabilitation) Centres across the country providing vocational training for people with disabilities, of which the Accra Rehabilitation Centre is one. Typically the skills that they train are rural crafts and therefore rather outmoded, but there is an effort to update the programme however unsurprisingly resources for this are limited.

Ø254 - Part of the Accra Rehabilitation Centre compound. The entrance to the GFD office is in the back left corner. (Sorry, photo upload not currently working will try adding this photo again another time)

I’ve been arriving at work for 8.30 and leaving between 4 and 5. My days have included a press conference to mark the start of the International Week of the Deaf where the Ghana National Association of the Deaf called for sign language to be recognised as a national language of Ghana. This would mean that a curriculum and teaching resources would be developed and made available through the education system, something which does not currently exist. Without this structure, deaf people are left to teach themselves to sign or learn from a deaf friend. This means that there is no one definitive sign language, as well as no resources from which to learn. It was at the press conference that I was taught, along with the “esteemed ladies and gentlemen of the press” to sign the alphabet in American Sign Language. This has helped me to communicate a little with Dede in advance of learning the more time-efficient signs!

I had an insightful and positive first meeting with my Manager Fred and Programme Officer Greg after the press conference on Monday. It was great to hear more about the organisation’s focus on three key projects:

1) To support the disability movement across Ghana to become better at advocating for the rights of their disabled communities

2) To work towards Ghana’s ratification of Ratification of the United Nations Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disability

3) To research the education and employment opportunities for people with disabilities to inform a new evidence-based advocacy programme in this area.

On my second day I attended a conference organised by Ike about the inclusion of people with disabilities in the Millennium Development Goals (http://www.undp.org/mdg/basics.shtml) Speakers were the Chairman of the National Council on Persons with Disability and the President of Ghana Association of the Blind. Both were very clear that more needs to be done to ensure people with disabilities are included in the achievement the Goals’ targets. For example, Goal 2, universal primary education will not be reached in Ghana unless particular efforts are made to enable more children with disabilities to attend school. It is estimated that currently only 4,100 of the 804,000 school aged children with disabilities are in education (either segregated or integrated).

Ø245 - Ike in full swing hosting the MDG conference (Again, sorry, photo upload not currently working will try adding this photo again another time)

The rest of the week has been given over to reading. I spent a good day pouring over an excellent report done by a previous VSO volunteer on “Attitudes Towards Persons with Disability in Ghana”. I’ve read GFD’s advocacy strategy, the reports done by 2 UK MPs (Keith Hill and Roger Gale) who both spent 2 weeks working on advocacy issues with GFD in 2008 and 2009 respectively, and I’ve done some internet research too. Now I know a little more about the context I’m hoping to spend some time with my colleagues understanding their roles and perspectives on the organisation, and finding out just how my placement can effectively contribute to GFD’s objectives.

A conversation with Ike on Friday revealed he stayed late on Thursday night working in his other role as secretary for the Ghana Society of the Physically Disabled. They are in need of some new laptops for their training centre and he has been tasked with applying to MTN (one of the mobile phone networks) for support. Ike has never written a proposal before and was really pleased when I said I would be happy to support him with it, and I was really excited too. It’s exactly what I’m experienced in and will be a great first bit of skill sharing!

Before I left work on Friday I emailed Fred and Greg a document reflecting on the objectives in my placement description, giving my first impressions on how they might translate into an activity plan, and raising some questions that I would like to discuss with them and the team to help me to continue to build the picture.

Whilst I am excited about refining this work plan and starting to work through it, it will have to wait until the week after next. On Thursday I received an invitation from VSO, along with one for my colleague Doris, to attend VSO’s Inclusion Workshop in Kumasi next week (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumasi). I’ll travel the 4 hours north by coach on Monday and will be there for the whole week along with fellow volunteers and representatives from other partner organisations working in the Disability sector. It will be a great opportunity to understand some of the wider context in which VSO is operating, meet other partner organisations and get to see a small slice of Ghana outside Accra.

I couldn’t have hoped for a better week one and week two is looking rather promising too! I’ll keep you posted…

Tuesday, 21 September 2010

And off we go...

Friday was the last day of our week of induction training before VSO let us loose in Ghana!  We went to the Programme Office in the morning where we were given a tour, our VSO ID card, three month's living allowance upfront, a lovely lunch and a bag of goodies...2 treated mozzie nets, 2 bed sheets and a water filter! 
We left the office and the week well equipped for the months ahead, and with the temptations of Accra's Oxford Street (it is actually called that) just around the corner we can pretty much get anything else too, for a price.  Packet of special price 89p Foxes Creams for the equivalent of £2.70 anyone??

Monday, 20 September 2010

Learning to Twi-tter

My first week in Accra was spent in in-country training with all of the other volunteers and lots of programme office staff.  The timetable was comprehensive and took us through security briefing, programme briefings, health workshop, discussions about the tripartite agreement between VSO, our local partner organisations and ourselves along with lots of other sessions. For me, the most challenging (and most fun) were the 3 introductory sessions on Twi, the most widely spoken language other than English in the Accra area. It's really not necessary for getting by here but knowing a few words is already bringing a smile to local faces, as well as mine :)

I took a short video so you could learn how to count from 2 - 10 in Twi (I didn't quite start the video in time to catch 1 I'm afraid!) courtesy of our tutor Ananay, but I don't think the updload has worked so apologies if it isn't above.

Here is the written version (0.5 to 8 this time!) instead...

Monday, 13 September 2010

Arrived in Accra

I'm here! Along with 24 other VSO volunteers who are about to start their placements in Ghana.  I knew there were a fair number of others on the flight from Heathrow, and as groups of nice looking people gathered for chats by the loos on the plane I began to work out who they were, and (after the trashy romcom I was watching finished) I went to say hello.

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The 15 of us from the UK who flew in yesterday have been joined by 9 others, from Australia, India and the Philippines and together we started our In Country Training (ICT - the first of a million acronyms!) today.  To my delight one of the things on the agenda for this morning was a bus tour around Accra. Fabulous. Was great to see where we are beyond the hotel walls (we arrived in the dark yesterday)! This afternoon it was back to the conference room for more briefings on VSO's work in Ghana and some of the more mundane logistical bits, but I was very happy to receive my pocket money of 15 cedis for the week (about £7.50!).

All in all a great day one :)

Thursday, 9 September 2010

From Edgbaston to Accra

Wednesday 8th September
Once my placement was confirmed with VSO I got back in touch with my old school, King Edward VI High School for Girls in Edgbaston http://www.kehs.org.uk/. I remembered someone coming to talk to us about something overseas and exciting when I was there, and I thought it might be nice to pass on the favour.  The Head, Miss Evans, warmly invited me to come back and give an assembly, and I eagerly accepted! The charity worker in me wanted to spread the volunteering word, the fundraiser in me was keen to introduce the girls to Teacher's Got Talent, VSO's fun school fundraising idea http://www.teachers-got-talent.org.uk/, and the public speaker in me fancied the buzz of it, which I certainly got.....!
Sadly the presentation that I prepared couldn't be used on the day as the projector bulb had blown, so it was just me. No powerpoint comfort blanket, and I hadn't thought I would need notes!  Eeeek!  Anyway all went well (I think!) and I'm hopeful that some of the teachers and girls will keep in touch through this blog.  Hello to you if you're from KEHS and reading this!  See if you can spot yourself in the picture....:)

Thursday, 19 August 2010

The small print

There's a lot of print, large and small to be read on my way along this volunteer journey. This is a small bit that I have just read in my Next Steps Pack for Long Term Volunteers and it's about blogs.  I need to put here that...

"The views expressed in this blog are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect those of VSO"

...So I have, there you go, no excuses for getting confused on that point :)

Now it's on to the Confirmation of Acceptance, Volunteering Allowance and Insurance forms that are all waiting for me in that pack too!

Sunday, 1 August 2010

Tick on the list

Just thought i'd squeeze in another of my things to do before the weekend comes to an end. I'm all about getting ticks against lists at the moment.  Well sadly a little more about the lists than the ticks as it currently stands, but both are helping.  I'm half way through my 12 week countdown to going to Ghana (which I started before I actually had the placement confirmed!) and I have never had so many to do lists.
Blog created, tick.